Refinished Side Tables

Side Table Refinish

So here is the process for refinishing those side tables.

First step was to cut the legs down to the right height.  The smaller table of the two was about 20 3/4 inches so I just marked the front two legs and used my sewing ruler as a straight edge to make sure the cuts will line up, taking 3 1/4 inches off.  I did the same with the back legs but I also made markings along the inner and outer sides to make sure all four would line up nicely.   For this piece, I used a silver magic marker because I was concerned that other ways of marking (chalk pencils, etc) would rub or wear off during the process.

Next step was to use our jigsaw to cut the four legs down to size.  The jigsaw is a run of the mill Black and Decker.  Thanks to my husband for making the cuts, don't forget to wear safety goggles when you do this at home!

Now that the tables should be even, I like to group my painting projects so that everything that needs to be primed, painted, sealed, etc will be done at the same time.  This cuts down on washing brushes, supplies, etc.  For the paint, I picked up one quart of Academy Grey paint in a flat enamel finish from Lowes. What I did was make a form of DIY chalk paint.  There are multiple recipes out there and I have studied many DIY sites for their reviews and finally came up with this recipe below:

DIY Chalk Paint

1. Mix 7 tablespoons of white unsanded grout mix with 7 tablespoons of lukewarm water.

1. Make sure the mixture is smooth and the lumps have been worked out.  (I usually just use a plastic fork or spoon for this part)
2. Slowly stir in your paint.  I used 21 tsp of paint, adding a few tsp at a time and continuously stir to blend well.  The paint will come out thicker but still easy to apply.  Difference is color from original paint is negligible.

For this chalk paint mixture you have to apply paint fairly quickly (as grout will tend to set and harden your mixture if you leave it out uncovered).  You don't want to mix up paint and leave it for hours or days until you start  your project.  I have found that if this happens you can slowly work the paint back to a better consistency with warm water and lots of stirring.  Let coat dry for few hours to ensure a good bond to furniture.

I am a recent convert to chalk paint as it cuts down on the need for priming which usually ruins my brushes.  I am not a fan of using harsh chemicals to clean because there often aren't safe and easy ways of disposing of the solvents when you're done.  If you let the coats dry completely you will get a nice finish.  Below is a picture of the coverage you get with one coat and then two.

For the finish, I decided to use some of the clear wax from Annie Sloan.  There are selected retailers for this project so go to their website and find one near you.  The price may seem steep for some people but trust me - a little goes a long way!  The clear wax is a nice finish for light pieces.  I haven't delved into projects using the darker wax for an antiqued finish yet, but have been very pleased with the clear wax product.   If you look online at tutorials for applying clear wax, you will see these interesting little round brushes they use for application.  They looked useful, so I started searching for them... only to find the cheapest one I could find was about $30 on Amazon.com.  Not my cup of tea.  What I have done instead is designated a nice soft but sturdy brush (again from Lowes) for this purpose.

Make sure you are working in a well ventilated area, the fumes from the wax are not pleasant, so please do this in an outdoor space or somewhere you have good air flow.  You can scoop a bit of the wax into a bowl/cup (again one which I continuously use only for this purpose) and dab the paint brush into it.  It will pick up chunks of wax, but don't worry once you dapple it on and start brushing in an even circular motion it will even out.  You don't want to gob on the wax, mostly because you will just have to buff it out later and you'll end up wasting a lot.  Once you have nicely covered the surfaces, gently wipe with a clean cloth.  Then walk away for a day or two.

When you head back to buff the wax out, take a nice clean cloth with you and be prepared to put some elbow grease into this project.  I usually buff once over, making sure to use enough light so I see where the finish may need some extra attention, and then buff once more.  Again, be prepared to let it set for a few days.

The only part left was to gather up some hardware.   The two knobs from the left table were easy to replace.  I just found some nice nickel knobs that match the pulls on the dresser.  The table from the right side ended up being a pull that required a smaller version of the pulls from the dresser.  It takes away from the symmetry of the room, but who likes a room that is too perfect?  It is important to let your wax finish set for a few days after buffing before you install the hardware.  If you start this process too soon after applying the wax or buffing it out, it will end up pushing into the finish around.

Here are the before and after picture of the tables.

I hope this post was helpful.  Please post any questions or comments and have fun!